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Double Boiler Hot Process Soapmaking Method 2

2008-11-22T17:23:00.000-08:00

Special Tools
DBHP requires a double boiler setup. This can be arranged with any two pots, one larger than the other so that the smaller will fit inside the larger, leaving some space at the bottom and at the sides of the smaller pot.
The larger pot can be any metal; for the inside pot, choose stainless steel or heat-resistant glass.
A cake cooling rack is placed on the bottom of the larger pot, to prevent the bottom of the smaller pot to be in direct contact with the heat. An empty tin, upturned and with a couple of holes punched in the bottom, or a rag, folded several times, can be used instead of the cake rack.

How To Proceed

Prepare your double boiler, organise your workspace and have recipe, ingredients, tools and vinegar ready.
Measure out (by weight) water and caustic soda, then prepare the lye solution and place it in the sink to cool down.
Measure out fats and oils (by weight), and place them in the inside pot (referred to as "soap pot" from now on). If you wish to add some oils at the end of a cook, measure these out into a separate container.
Place the rack, tin or rags on the bottom of the large container (referred to as "boiler" from now on).
Add to the boiler enough water for the soap pot to be half-submerged, but still not floating.
Place the soap pot inside the boiler and turn the heat on to medium.
When the solid fats are melted, remove the soap pot, place it on your work bench and add the lye solution as described for Cold Process soap. Leave the boiler on the stove while you do this.
At trace, place the soap pot into the boiler and replace both lids.
When the water in the boiler starts boiling, turn the heat down and keep to a slow simmer (lids always on) for an hour.
While the soap cooks, prepare your moulds and the ingredients you wish to add at the end of the cook. Remember you'll have to work quickly with the cooked soap paste!
When the soap has simmered for an hour, remove the lids and give the soap paste a stir. The soap should have a jelly-like look, with a consistency similar to applesauce and a nice golden-yellow colour. Take a small amount of soap out of the pot and place it on a saucer for the "ball test". Replace the lids.
When the small amount of soap you have placed on the saucer has cooled down a bit, roll it between your fingers into a ball. If the ball keeps its shape, without being too sticky, and turns an opaque whitish colour, then the soap is cooked.
Depending on batch size and base oils/fats, Double Boiler soap needs cooking for 1 to 2 hours, with shorter times for smaller batches and recipes with a higher content of saturated fats, and 2 hours for larger batches and recipes containing high amounts of insaturated fats. DBHP castile soap (olive oil only, or olive and castor oil) usually requires 2 hour cooking times.
If the soap ball is sticky and doesn't roll between your fingers, the soap needs cooking longer. Test it again after another 15 minutes.
If the soap ball is crumbly, the soap has been either cooked too long, or the heat was too high during the cook, or maybe you have forgotten to replace the lids at some stage. The soap is going to be perfectly usable, but you might find it difficult to mould.
Remember that the water in the boiler must simmer, and never boil too fast.
When the soap paste is ready, turn the heat off and let the water in the boiler cool down to 50 to 60ºC (122 to 140ºF). You can now add the extra ingredients.
If you keep the soap pot inside the boiler, the soap paste will remain soft longer, and adding the extra ingredients will be easier. Be extra careful when mixing, to avoid hot water splashes!
When all the ingredients have been added and stirred in thoroughly, pour or scoop the soap into the prepared mould(s). Tap each mould to get rid of air pockets and ensure proper filling. Larger moulds might need "banging" on the work bench, and you might want to place a couple of rags between mould and bench to avoid damages.
Place a piece of baking paper on the soap and press/smooth down with a clean spoon (or you can use your hands, if you are wearing rubber gloves).
To obtain a smoother, finer looking soap, you can insulate the moulds as explained for Cold Process soap. The soap paste will cool down slowlier, and will settle down better in the mould.
When the soap has cooled down, you can cut it or slice it before arranging on racks for the 4 weeks curing period. You can however test your soap straight away, because cooking insures that saponification is complete at the end of the cook.

Source : aquasapone.com.au

Double boiler and oven hot process soapmaking methods

2008-11-22T17:13:00.000-08:00

Deciding whether Cold Process is better than Hot Process, or viceversa, is just a matter of personal preference and soapmaking "culture" - a bit like deciding whether holidaying at the beach is better than mountain trekking, or whether black tea is better than white tea!

Both methods offer specifical advantages and disadvantages, and in our experience, the best way to choose is for you to read through the instructions and warnings for both basic soapmaking methods (Cold Process, or CP, and Hot Process, or HP), evaluate pros and cons, make up your mind based on your expectations and skills, and then apply the "golden rule": try for yourself, and see if you're happy with the results!

The advantages of Hot Process soap are, by general agreement, basically three:

Soap is completely saponified quicker than in Cold Process soap.
Essential and fragrance oils, superfatting oils, and other additives are added at the end of the cook and are not affected by the saponification reaction.
Hot Process soaps are easier to slice and do not crumble. For this reason, they offer a better alternative for those soapmakers who prefer to cut their soaps "on request".

There are however a few disadvantages, including the following:

At the end of the cook, the soap paste is less fluid than with Cold Process, and not as easy to work with for moulds designed for larger batches (such as divider soap moulds, for instance).
Soapmakers disagree on the effects that cooking might have on the base oils, and some argue that cooking will reduce or destroy altogether the "live" properties of the oils. If it's true that even Cold Process soap must undergo an exothermic reaction, the difference between the highest temperatures reached by Hot Process and Cold Process is approximately 30ºC, which appears to justify these concerns.
Although it's true that Hot Process soap can be used as early as a few hours after the end of the cook (and this is because the saponification process has been completed during this phase), no handmade soap can be considered truly ready to use in less than 4 weeks. As a matter of fact, because it uses a larger amount of water than Cold Process , Hot Process soap tends to require longer curing (drying) times than Cold Process soap.
Cooking represents an energy waste, which can be avoided with Cold Process soap.

Ingredients and amounts are the same as with Cold Process, with the following differences:

No matter how much water you choose to use for Cold Process soap, Hot Process requires a water ratio of 0.35-0.375 parts of water for each part of oils. The MMS saponification calculator gives the safest water amount for Hot Process soap.
Additives (including fragrances and essential oils) are always added at the end of the cook. "Luxury" oils are also added at the end of the cook if you want to protect their live qualities.
Cosmetic grade oxides and ultramarines must be added before cooking if you want to obtain a uniform colour for the finished soap.
Milks, sugars and honey tend to burn when added before cooking, and will give brown to dark brown soaps. In general, recipes using milks, sugars or honey give best results with the Cold Process method.
Mixing temperatures are not crucial for the success of the soap, but it's important to keep in mind that, if the soap mix is hotter than 50ºC (122ºF) at trace, the soap will most likely raise and "volcano" out of the pot during the cook.

Refer to the sections on soap safety and Cold Process soap for the initial step-by-step instructions.

Double check and make notes!

Saponification calculators, pen and paper are a soaper's best friends. Whichever the source of your recipe, always run the amounts through a SAP calculator and make sure the amount of caustic soda is within the safety threshold (from 3% to 10% superfatting, 0% superfatting for laundry and cleaning soaps only).
Also.... don't forget to make notes. Troubleshooting a problem batch is impossible, unless we know exactly what we did, how we did it and in which order. No notes also mean replicating a successful batch might be very difficult. So don't be afraid... and write :-)

Double Boiler Hot Process
The Double Boiler Hot Process soapmaking method is described here.

Source : aquasapone.com.au

How to make soap : Basic soap formula

The process soapmaking method

2008-11-22T16:57:00.000-08:00

Read more : First step of making soap

When the oils are around 45º C / 110º F and the lye solution has reached the same (or cooler) temperature, you can start getting ready for mixing the soap.

Place the soap pot on a flat, safe surface (the stove is not safe enough, in my opinion).
Add the lye solution to the oils in a steady stream, but not too fast, while stirring continuously with your long handled tool.
Stir with slow, even movements to avoid splashes.
The mixture becomes opaque and starts taking a lighter colour.
Once all the lye solution has been added, keep stirring for a couple of minutes.
Get your stick blender ready (you can leave the soap mixture unattended while you do this).
Place the stick blender in the middle of the pot, resting it on the bottom (or as close to the bottom as you can if you're making a large batch). Make sure the level of the soap mixture is at least a couple of inches lower than the motor of your stick blender, and the blades of the stick blender are covered by at least 3 inches/7 cm of soap mixture!
Start the stick blender and operate it in short bursts.
As the mixture gets lighter in colour, and starts assuming a creamy appearance, you can operate the stick blender with no interruptions for longer periods.
To avoid overheating the motor, turn the stick blender off and use it as a manual stirrer periodically.
Within 3 to 10 minutes (depending on the type of fats/oils, and other variables), the soap mixture will be smooth and glossy, with similar consistency and "feel" to thin custard.
This is the beginning of "trace", a.k.a. thin trace. This is an important stepping stone for adding some particular ingredients or carrying out some special operations (for instance, dividing the batch if you're working on a swirled soap).
Unless you have some special reason for stopping at this point (see above, or refer to your recipe instructions), keep stirring until the mixture reaches full trace. When using a stick blender, this might take anything between 20 seconds and a few minutes after thin trace.
You'll know you have reached full trace when a little bit of the mixture, dribbled from the stick blender, will leave a "trace" before sinking.
You can now add the fragrance or essential oils and the other ingredients you have reserved for adding at trace.
For this, you can set the stick blender aside and go back to your long handled spoon. Make sure you blend the oils (or whatever) thoroughly, and don't forget to scrape down the sides of the pot.
Pour the soap into the mould(s). It is best to do this slowly (see the picture above? the pot was very full and very heavy, and I thought I could get rid of the weight quickly.... Luckily, the "soap splash" remained inside the mould!)
If you're using individual moulds, you might find it easier to ladle out the soap mixture, at least in the beginning.
Pour out as much of the soap mixture as you can, and scrape down the pot properly (you'll find here some ideas on how to clean the pot).
Cover the soap with the towels (or blankets, or rags). Remember to place a piece of baking (greaseproof) paper on top, if the mold(s) are filled to the brim.
Arrange the towels/rags so that all the mold is covered - top and sides.
Leave the soap undisturbed for 12 to 24 hours. Insulating the soap helps speeding up the saponification process (the chemical reaction), and properly mixed and insulated soap is usually caustic-free after as little as 24 hours.

A good way to understand if your soap is coming out properly, is to have a quick peek after 2 to 4 hours after pouring. By this time, properly mixed and insulated soap will have reached gel phase, and will look translucent and *much* darker then when you poured it. This is perfectly normal, and really, I think this is the only way to be sure that what you've done is going to be soap.... soon! :-)

Since there's no precise steps to follow at this stage, I will simply give you a list of notes and comments:

Try and keep the soap in gel state as long as possible (that is, do not move the moulds or remove the insulation layer).
After 12 to 24 hours, the soap should be ready to unmould.
Properly made and insulated soap is opaque and solid, and should not be covered by any "soap dust".
Soap dust is a white powder that may appear on the surface(s) of the soap exposed to air. Chemically speaking, this may or may not be sodium carbonate, a mild alkaline salt that forms when the still caustic soap mixture reacts with the air surrounding the soap, and is totally innocuous. Another theory is that this white powder is simply "dry soap". Discussions abound on this subject, and my personal conclusion is that it's not worth worrying (too much) about it.... :-)
Unmould the soap and leave to cure at room temperature.
Arrange the soap on your chosen "cooling racks" (for instance, clean carboard trays, such as those used by greengrocers for exotic fruit) so that air can circulate around each soap.
If you live in a very humid climate, it might be safer to cure the soap in air tight plastic containers. Experiences and opinions on this subject are not unanimous - my personal experience is that a humid room is a lot more "dangerous" than an air tight plastic box, and I know of soapers (in tropical Australia) who simply avoid making soap during the monsoon season.
Curing is basically needed to get rid of the excess water, as well as an extra precaution to make sure no free alkalis are present.
Well cured soap has a richer lather and lasts much longer than fresh soap.
If you have precise pH strips, you can test the alkalinity of your soap. At the end of the saponification process, natural soap will read between 9.0 and 10.5.
On the pH of soap, I recommend Ann Perius-Parker's article, available from Kathy Miller's fantastic soap info site.
In my experience, the pH of properly prepared, mixed and insulated soap does not change over time.
There are more empirical ways for testing the alkalinity of soap. The most popular is called "tongue test", and I personally like the way "Hersh" (James Hershberger) describes how to do a tongue test without burning one's tongue off.
A simpler and less painful method, is to wash your hands with the soap. If it burns, or if it leaves you with a "boiled skin" feeling (similar to what happens after soaking in a hot bath for a long time), or if the lather feels slimy and rinses off with difficulty, then the soap is still caustic.
This might change over time. So before deciding your soap is too caustic, leave it to cure for another few days.
If the burning/slimy/boiled skin sensations are still present after one week from unmoulding, then there is too much free caustic soda in the soap. Double check your recipe and notes: did you leave one of the base oils out? Did you check the accuracy of your scales? Did you double check the initial calculations using a reliable SAP calculator?
In my experience, soap that still feels caustic after two weeks from unmoulding is most likely a "lye heavy" batch.
The fact your soap is lye heavy doesn't mean you must throw it in the bin. On the contrary! Soap can always be rescued - for instance, you can rebatch the soap adding some extra oils, or you can make some laundry gel.

I hope you've found this information useful. If you would like to discuss further, you might like to consider joining a qualified soap making list, such as Soap Naturally.

Source : aquasapone.com.au

How to make soap : Basic soap formula

The classic cold process soapmaking method

2008-11-22T16:56:00.000-08:00

Please notice these suggestions are made available as general information only. Soap making from scratch implies working with dangerous substances, such as caustic soda in its pure form (NaOH - sodium hydroxide, or KOH - potassium hydroxide). We do not assume or accept any responsibility for, and will not be liable for the accuracy or inappropriate application of any information whatsoever in any material on this website.
If you prefer to avoid working with strong lye solutions, you can choose the easy road and purchase a natural soap base for hand milling, also known as rebatching or, less appropriately, as remilling.

Overview
I am placing this set of instructions on my Website basically because it has become difficult to obtain on the Internet reliable information about the basic cold process (CP) method of soapmaking. While there is nothing new in the general concept, I have attempted to describe the process in a way that even beginner soapmakers can understand.

It is however important to note that soapmaking is not suitable for everyone and all. Safety considerations are paramount when working with "lye", and we assume the reader is 100% aware of the risks, and can take total responsibility for the consequences.

Before attempting to make soap for the first time, you might like to check out some basic safety considerations for a run down of the precautions required when working with strong alkalis. For further and general background information about soap and soapmaking, please refer to my soap methods overview and my versions of hot process soap and discounted water cold process methods.

What is CP soap making?
In short, CP (cold process) method is a way to make soap without applying any extra heat. By definition, it is impossible to make really "cold" soap. This is because soap is the product of a chemical reaction (called "saponification") where fatty acids, combined with an alkali, give a salt (=soap) as the final product. You probably remember from your school days that this type of chemical reaction is exothermic - in other words, it creates heat.

It should be noted however that for saponification to occur, oils, fats and the alkali must all be in liquid form. For this reason, water is needed to dilute the alkali, and oils or fats that are solid at room temperature must first be placed on a heat source to melt.

The alkalis used for soap making are sodium hydroxide (chemical formula: NaOH), and potassium hydroxide (chemical formula: KOH). In their pure form, both NaOH and KOH are solid (powder or flakes). When we talk of "alkali", we refer to sodium or potassium hydroxide, in general. When we talk of "caustic soda", we usually refer to the same thing - whereas a "caustic solution" or "lye solution" is the strongly alkaline liquid made by dissolving pure NaOH or KOH in water.

In case you're wondering, there is no way for making soap, and even less natural glycerine soap, without an alkali. For the fatty acids (fats and oils) to turn into soap, caustic soda must be used - no alkali, no chemical reaction, no salt and no soap. However, properly made natural soap contains some extra fatty acids (which are very good for your skin), plenty of natural glycerine (which, too, is good for your skin), and no free alkali - which is quite the opposite to what happens with factory soaps... even the mildest!

Temperature considerations
There is no general agreement as to which is the optimal "starting" temperature for a successful batch of soap. The suggestions that follow come from my personal experience and observations, but I am not setting any "laws". Different soapers have different opinions, and I respect them all.

Double check and make notes!
Saponification calculators, pen and paper are a soaper's best friends. Whichever the source of your recipe, always run the amounts through a SAP calculator and make sure the amount of caustic soda is within the safety threshold (from 3% to 10% superfatting, 0% superfatting for laundry and cleaning soaps only).
Also.... don't forget to make notes. Troubleshooting a problem batch is impossible, unless we know exactly what we did, how we did it and in which order. No notes also mean replicating a successful batch might be very difficult. So don't be afraid... and write :-)

My personal preference is to work at medium to low starting temperatures, and to measure by weight all ingredients, including water, and only excluding the essential oils, which I measure in milliliters. Also, I use a stick blender, which cuts down enormously on stirring times. In detail, here is what I suggest you do:

After choosing the recipe and calculating the amounts of the ingredients (oils/fats, caustic soda, water, fillers and fragrance), prepare your working space - i.e., put away things that might become contaminated and cover the surface with a layer of old newspaper.
Collect all the equipment, the ingredients, and the containers and tools you will need for this batch of soap.
Find a few old towels, or a blanket, or some heavy rags for insulating the moulds. If you're planning to fill the moulds to the brim, you'll also need a roll of baking paper (or plastic film, or some heavy duty plastic).
Prepare the lye solution: measure the required amount of cold water in a heat resistant container. I use a heavy plastic (HDPE) jug, which has a fitting lid.
Place this container in the sink, and fill the sink with enough water to reach the level of the water in your container or more. Just make sure the container doesn't float too much (it will get heavier when you add the caustic, anyway).
Wear your protective clothing (gloves, mask etc.)
Measure the required amount of caustic soda in a clean, dry container.
Add the caustic soda to the water a little bit at a time, but not too slowly, and stirring continually with a long handled tool (I use a paint stirrer).
Avoid breathing in the fumes. If you can, I suggest you mix your lye solution outside (wind at your back, if any ;-). Make sure there is a water tap close by, in case of accidents.
Cover the container with the lye solution.
Measure your oils or fats directly in your soap pot. I start with the solid oils/butters to avoid splashes.
Place the soap pot on medium heat.
While the oils/fats are melting and the lye is cooling down, assemble, measure and organise your extra ingredients.
Line the mould (if you're using a log, slab or divider mold), or otherwise prepare your moulds (some types of plastic tray molds require greasing)
Determine where to place the moulds, and place a towel or thick layer of newspaper under the moulds. Remember you will not move the moulds for the first 12 to 24 hours - so choose a spot where the soap can be left undisturbed!
When the solid oils/fats are melted, turn the heat off under the soap pot and measure the temperature.
As I mentioned, I like working at medium to low starting temperatures. I suggest you start getting ready to mix your soap when the oils are around 45º C / 110º F.
If the fats/oils are warmer than this, just go and do something else while you wait - or you can place the soap pot in a sinkful of cold water to speed up the process.
When the oils are at the desired temperature, check the temperature of the lye solution. Typically, this will be lower than the temperature of the oils - which is perfect!
If the lye solution is still much warmer than the oils, I suggest you try and cool it down by adding more cold water to the sink.

How to Make Soap

2008-11-22T16:42:00.000-08:00

Natural soap making encompasses a wide variety of processes and methods. Rather than employing harsh chemicals and removing those nourishing elements your skin needs, natural soap making seeks to create the healthiest bathing experience possible.

The Internet is full of sites with this information but it is easy to become overloaded by the sheer volume of it all. This site is dedicated to all things related to the pasttime and helping you make your own natural soap.

As any soap maker can attest, learning about soap making is an incredibly fun and addictive hobby. It doesn't matter if you are brand new or an experienced soap maker, as this site grows you will find more and more useful information.

To stay up to date, definitely sign up for the FREE Soap Making Fun Newsletter! In it you will find recipes, tips, and other items that will help you along the way. To sign up, all you have to do is fill in your first name, email address, and a question you may have about soap making into the box in the top left-hand corner. It is free and your email address will only be used to send you the newsletter. We will never sell your email address to a 3rd party.

More Soap Making Information
The articles and webpages you will find throughout the site will help give you a better understanding of how to make soap and soap making in general. This site includes information on:

Cold Process Soap Making
Melt and Pour Soap Making
Hot Process Soap Making
Soap Making Supplies
Making Natural Homemade Soap
Soap Making Business

Medicinal Soap Information
Learn more about the medicinal properties of homemade soap. Here you will find articles, tips, the secrets of various ingredients, as well as recipes!

Holiday Soap Challenge
Join the Holiday Soap Challenge and push your soap making abilities to the limit! Take part and learn what you need to do in order to give soap as gifts for this Holiday Season. No previous experience required!

When I started making soap, there were basically only two methods available: CP (cold process) and a "rudimentary" hot process, carried out on direct heat (DHHP). It was therefore relatively simple for soapers to decide which one to use - it was enough to try both these methods, and decide which of the two was preferrable for the type of soaps they had in mind.

With handmade natural soap becoming increasingly popular and sought after, more and more adventurous soapmakers have been researching new techniques for obtaining reliable results in a shorter time. Currently, a number of different soap making methods are available, most of them as variations of Hot Process, where soap is cooked to speed up the saponification reaction.

All these methods were developed as a result of several soapmakers sharing opinions and experiences with each other, and are an ongoing testimony of the spirit of "working together" that characterises the oldest (and the best) Internet soapmaking mailing lists, such as Soap Naturally for instance.

This ongoing exchange of experiences and information, and the vast popularity that natural soap is enjoying, have of course advantages and disadvantages.

So, while it is true that increasing the number of possible methods can offer a better choice to experienced soapmakers in search of the optimal result, it is also true that beginners are somewhat at a loss when it comes to deciding which way to make soap - and the relatively large number of methods and techniques is often source of greater confusion. Soap Naturally - Ingredients, methods and recipes for natural handmade soap is the ultimate reference book for those who would like to approach natural soapmaking, as well as for experienced soapmakers in search of new inspirations.

For those who are already familiar with making soap from scratch, I am including here links to modern soap making methods that have gained some sort of "legal standing". For those who consider themselves "newbie soapers", I am also providing my personal version of the classic CP (cold process) method:

My version of the classic cold process soapmaking method (CP)
My versions of double boiler and oven hot process soapmaking methods (DBHP, OHP)
My version of the discounted water cold process soapmaking method (DCWCP)
From the Soap Naturally Web, a long list of sites describing other soapmaking methods, including microwave and crockpot HP, CPOP etc.
For background information on traditional techniques, I suggest a visit to the soapmaking history section of Soap Naturally Web.

Terapi Spa Vagina

2008-07-25T00:15:00.001-07:00

SPA ATAU SOLUS PER AQUA (hanya dengan air) adalah terapi yang sudah ribuan tahun digunakan untuk memelihara tubuh. Sekarang, layanan spa bisa dengan mudah kita nikmati di berbagai pusat perawatan, mulai dari spa untuk tubuh, rambut (hair spa), sampai kaki (foot spa). Kini ada satu lagi: spa khusus untuk vagina.

Seorang master bioenergi, Worro Harry Soeharman, yang sejak setahun lalu mengenalkan kembali spa khusus untuk wanita ini. Worro, begitu ia biasa disapa, menegaskan bahwa terapi ini sebenarnya sudah dikenal sejak zaman kuno. “Di zaman Majapahit bangsa kita sudah menggunakannya. Hanya saja, perawatan untuk bagian ini seolah ditutup-tutupi karena dirasa tidak sopan bila digembar-gemborkan,” ungkap konseptor V-spa ini. Padahal, terapi ini selayaknya menjadi gaya hidup, seperti halnya perawatan bagian tubuh yang lain.

Kuatkan Chi Reproduksi
V-spa, nama paten yang digunakan Worro untuk terapi ini, cukup menarik untuk dicermati. Menurutnya, metode perawatan bagian reproduksi wanita yang merupakan gabungan dari berbagai terapi kuno ini sangat aman. Dinyatakan aman karena V-spa tidak menggunakan alat atau bahan yang dimasukkan ke alat kelamin. “Digunakan terapi yang bisa menstimulasi tubuh agar dengan sendirinya mengeluarkan kotoran atau racun,” kata mantan pengajar di Martha Tilaar Salon & Spa ini.

Ada teknik pengasapan atau penguapan, teknik pijat akupresur yang diterapkan pada seluruh tubuh, terutama vagina. Ada pula meditasi gerak atau semacam kegel khusus untuk vagina. “V-spa itu sebenarnya terapi yang umum digunakan dalam perawatan kesehatan, hanya kali ini khusus diterapkan untuk vagina,” ungkapnya. Beberapa langkah tersebut sebagai bagian terapi eksternal. Selain itu, Worro juga melengkapinya dengan terapi internal atau konsumsi jamu. Bahan yang dipakai pun sudah umum dikenal, seperti kunyit dan temulawak, yang mesti diminum beberapa kali.

Meski sasarannya adalah organ reproduksi, terapi yang dijalankan memang menyangkut seluruh tubuh. Itu karena sistem di dalam tubuh tidak berjalan sendiri-sendiri, tetapi saling berkaitan. Misalnya untuk mengatasi jerawat yang membandel, dokter juga akan memeriksa sistem pencernaan pasien. Begitu pula yang berlaku dalam V-spa. Pijat dalam terapi ini bermanfaat memperkuat chi atau energi bagian reproduksi dan organ-organ lain yang mendukungnya. Meditasi gerak, salah satunya dengan mengencangkan otot dasar panggul disertai pernapasan, bagaikan gerakan yoga yang berguna untuk menjaga keseimbangan hormon-hormon tubuh.

Penguapan dan pengasapan juga penting karena membuat vagina wangi. Di samping itu, bau cendana dan akar-akar wangi dari beberapa tanaman yang dibakar akan tercium oleh hidung, masuk ke otak dan saraf, sehingga menenangkan dan menenteramkan. “Terapi ini dengan sendirinya akan memengaruhi wanita secara psikis. Si wanita akan merasa tenang dan harapannya makin menerima diri akhirnya menjadi percaya diri,” ujar perempuan berusia 47 tahun ini.

Yang jelas, tidak bisa dipungkiri adalah manfaat dari asupan ramuan kunyit dan temulawak. Kunyit bermanfaat sebagai antiradang, antiseptik, juga membantu meningkatkan stabilitas organ pencernaan. Temulawak berfungsi menguatkan organ hati.

Dalam pengobatan tradisional China kuno, tidak seimbangnya energi pada organ hati menyebabkan orang mudah marah. Keadaan ini ditunjukkan oleh kuku yang tipis, rapuh, dan pucat. Sebaliknya, kuku yang kuat dan berwarna merah muda menunjukkan sehatnya organ hati.

“Sebenarnya lengkaplah terapi V-spa ini,” ucap ibu dua anak ini. Mulai dari terjaganya kebersihan vagina, menguat dan melenturnya otot-otot dasar panggul dan otot vagina berkat latihan kontraksi dan rileksasi, sehingga memberikan “sensasi virginitas” pada pasangan, melancarkan sirkulasi darah, merilekskan tubuh, mencerahkan kulit, serta meningkatkan stamina tubuh.

Sensasi Virginitas
Pada dasarnya, terapi ini ditujukan untuk semua wanita. “Siapa saja tidak pandang usia, tetapi lebih baik yang sudah akil balik atau mendapatkan menstruasi,” sebutnya. Spa ini sangat baik dijalani, terutama oleh wanita yang mau menikah. Selain merawat organ intim dan memberikan “sensasi virginitas”, juga baik untuk kecantikan kulit dan menenangkan otot serta saraf yang tegang akibat persiapan pernikahan. Spa ini juga baik untuk ibu yang habis melahirkan. “Setelah nifas, V-spa dapat diandalkan untuk mengembalikan vitalitas vagina, menguatkan otot-otot dasar panggul, rileksasi, dan pemulihan keseimbangan tubuh melalui perawatan holistik body, mind and soul,” kata alumnus IKIP Sanata Dharma, Yogyakarta, ini.

Untuk wanita yang memiliki masalah keputihan, bau tak sedap, atau peradangan ringan pada vagina, spa khusus ini dapat membantu mengatasinya. Bahkan, bisa diterapkan untuk membantu meningkatkan imunitas dan semangat penderita kanker mulut rahim dengan memberikan perasaan rileks dan kesegaran tubuh.

“Bagi mereka yang belum menikah, V-spa bermanfaat untuk menjaga kebersihan, memperbaiki sirkulasi darah, dan energi tubuh,” katanya. Sebaliknya, bagi wanita menopause, dapat dimanfaatkan untuk meningkatkan gairah seksual dan rasa percaya diri. Worro menyebutkan, terapi ini selayaknya dilakukan dua kali sebulan. “Ini waktu yang ideal untuk bisa merasakan manfaatnya. Dua kali terapi itu dijalankan saat sebelum dan sesudah menstruasi,” tuturnya.

Mereka yang sedang menstruasi tidak dianjurkan melakukannya, apalagi yang mengidap penyakit menular seksual. Sebaiknya penyakit diobati dulu sampai sembuh setelah itu baru bisa melakukan terapi ini. Mereka yang sedang hamil juga tidak dianjurkan. “Ini karena bekerjanya seperti detoksifikasi,” ucap Worro.

Dr Boy Abidin, SpOG, spesialis kebidanan dan kandungan dari RS Mitra Keluarga Kelapa Gading, menyebutkan, V-spa memang baik. Meski hanya sekadar kosmetik, terutama pada tahap latihan mengencangkan otot vagina, terapi ini sangat penting. “Terutama untuk wanita yang habis melahirkan agar otot-otot makin lentur dan kuat,” komentar Dr Boy.

Wewangian yang digunakan bisa dimanfaatkan agar pasangan semakin bergairah. Hanya, tambahnya, yang perlu diperhatikan adalah frekuensinya, “Jangan terlalu sering.” Anjuran melakukannya dua kali sebulan, sebelum dan sesudah menstruasi, sudah cukup tepat.

Dr Boy menegaskan, pembersihan vagina sebaiknya dilakukan secara rutin, terutama pada bagian luar, tapi untuk pembersihan bagian dalam sebaiknya jangan sering. “Kalau terlalu bersih, flora normal dan laktobasilus akan hilang. Padahal, ini kan benteng bagi vagina untuk menghantam kuman,” katanya.

Source : Kompas.com

How to make soap : Basic soap formula

Tahapan Terapi Spa Vagina

2008-07-25T00:13:00.000-07:00

TERAPI V-spa butuh waktu kurang lebih 2-3 jam. Tidak hanya organ intim yang dimanja, melainkan hampir seluruh tubuh. Bagaimanakah urutan terapi ini? Mari kita perhatikan!

Konsultasi
Setiap perawatan dan pemeliharaan kesehatan tentu butuh analisis lebih dahulu. Konsultasi awal dengan ahli penting dijalankan untuk mengetahui secara umum kondisi si wanita. Salah satunya untuk melihat apakah ada penyakit tertentu yang terkait dengan organ intim. Pada tahap ini segala masalah dan keinginan peserta terapi bisa disampaikan. Lalu terapis akan memberikan pengarahan tentang teknis perawatan dan manfaatnya.
Vulva Hygiene
Sebelum terapi dijalankan, kebersihan bagian intim menjadi fokus yang pertama. Perawatan dimulai dengan membersihkan vulva vagina dari kotoran dengan air hangat yang mengandung herbal wash dan minyak aromatik.
V-Scrubing
Selanjutnya daerah sekitar organ intim seperti lipatan paha, area perut, dan pantat serta daerah yang kulitnya cenderung lebih gelap seperti daerah ketiak dan payudara, digosok dengan scrub berbahan rempah semisal cendana, akar wangi, dan mawar. Scrub ini bermanfaat untuk mengangkat sel kulit mati, mencerahkan dan menghaluskan kulit.
Pijat bioenergi
Biar tubuh rileks, peredaran darah lancar, stamina tubuh dan vagina meningkat, perawatan dilanjutkan dengan pijat terapi aroma. Pemijatan dengan teknik bioenergi ini dilakukan pada seluruh tubuh, terutama otot-otot dasar panggul.
Guci Bathing
Selesai pijat, dilanjutkan berendam dalam guci besar berisi air hangat yang ditetesi minyak esensial. Sambil berendam, peserta terapi dibimbing untuk melakukan meditasi gerak.
Gerakan-gerakan itu berupa kontraksi untuk mengencangkan otot dasar panggul, pinggang, paha dalam, paha luar, lutut, kaki, dan otot vagina. Langkah-langkah ini dilakukan dengan mengatur napas sambil merasakan benar-benar kenyamanan di seluruh tubuh. Dalam hal ini konsentrasi, olah rasa, dan napas berjalan seiring.
V-Steam (penguapan)
Untuk merilekskan, melancarkan aliran darah di sekitar vagina, dan meluruhkan lendir berlebih pada vagina, dilakukan steam vagina. V-Steam dijalani dalam posisi duduk dan kaki terbuka tebar. Lalu daerah sekitar organ intim diberi uap hangat (steam) yang berasal dari ramuan herbal dan minyak esensial.
V-Compress
Untuk melengkapinya, dalam keadaan hangat, ramuan herbal yang telah dikemas seperti tea-bag, dikompreskan pada vagina dan sekitarnya. Fungsinya sebagai tonik atau penguat untuk meningkatkan stamina vagina, antiinfeksi, serta mengurangi peradangan atau nyeri, jika ada.
V-fogging (pengasapan)
Pengasapan dilakukan dengan membakar rempah dari akar hitam, akar wangi, dan cendana yang dipanaskan dalam vaporizer. Langkah ini bermanfaat meningkatkan stamina vagina, sebagai antiseptik dan menjaga kelembaban vagina.
Perawatan dari dalam
Sebagai perawatan dari dalam, disediakan dua macam ramuan alami yang berfungsi untuk meningkatkan stamina, bersifat antiseptik, dan menghangatkan tubuh. Bisa dipilih ramuan Indonesia, misalnya kunyit dan temulawak, atau ramuan Cina.

Souce : Kompas.com

Handmade Gifts and Handmade Crafts

2008-07-10T01:29:00.000-07:00

Handmade Gifts, Handmade Crafts and Home Decor
Homespun Heaven Gifts and Crafts features handmade crafts and unique handmade gifts from talented, creative crafters, celebrating originality and excellence in craftsmanship and artistry, with a blending of cherished tradition and contemporary style.

Celebrating home and family, we are presenting carefully chosen, hand selected gifts and shopping items for all seasons and occasions, all of the finest quality. You'll find unique gift ideas and shopping for all ages, handcrafted with originality and care.

Crafts Directory
Visit our crafts directory, with many fine sites being added featuring handmade gifts of all types, including handmade soap, needlework, quilting and needle arts.

Crafts Web Design
We offer an opportunity to display your hand made crafts and gift items online. Crafts web design, promotion and hosting services are available for both new and existing sites featuring handcrafted items, or even if you don't already have a site.

Online Shopping
There is an online shopping section for that features apparel & accessories, Christmas gifts, health & beauty items, kids clothes & gifts and more.

Handcrafted Design Source

2008-07-10T01:19:00.000-07:00

Welcome to the Handcrafted Design Source, a guide to Western North Carolina craft artists who create custom home furnishings, architectural elements, and accessories for the home and garden. Design professionals, as well as homeowners, seeking to commission local craft artists for signature construction and custom design projects will find this resource helpful and easy to use. Whether you are looking for a one-of-a-kind iron railing, a pottery sink, a handcrafted tile countertop, a dining room table, or a garden bench, the Handcrafted Design Source is the place to look!

SEARCH the Handcrafted Design Source

Based in the Blue Ridge Mountains, HandMade in America was founded in 1993 with a belief that economic revitalization wasn't necessarily tied to luring "modern" industry to the region but in making known the hidden heritage and craftspeople that are so vitally a part of Western North Carolina. Today, HandMade is a nationally recognized, multidimensional institution that has sparked initiatives and creative collaborations in education, small town revitalization and community development, economic development, environmentally sustainable strategies and enhanced opportunities for makers of the handmade object, heritage tourism, and incorporating crafts into building design and furnishing.
We don't teach crafts-making, or make or sell objects, but we do serve as a support system for craftspeople and the craft industry.

www.handmadeinamerica.org

What is Virtual Room Decorating

2008-07-10T00:47:00.000-07:00

Create your own unique room design online
Redecorating a room? Or just love experimenting with color and design? Our new Design a Room tool is the perfect place to unleash your inner interior designer. This innovative point-and-click design tool allows you to choose the style and type of room (living rooms, bedrooms, kitchens and more) and change the Armstrong flooring, ceiling, walls, and cabinetry until your room design is just right.

To create your dream room design, first select your room and its style. Then have fun changing the flooring, the wall colors, the ceiling types and colors, the cabinetry and more. Enlarge your design to take an up-close look, and save your finished room to your idea folder, where a personalized product list has been created for you.

Design Your Dream Room
Before you choose a single can of paint or upholstery fabric, play with wall color, flooring, cabinetry and more. Use Design a Room as the first step in your room makeover process.

Home Decorating Ideas Galore
We take you step by step through the room makeover process! Start by visiting the Home Inspirations Gallery, which features over 200 room photos and decorating ideas. Then read up on everything from feng shui furniture arrangement to paint color selection in our Home Decorating topic area. Finally, visit the Home Decorating message boards to share your makeover story and meet other women who love decorating their homes.

Aromatherapy Spa with Natural soap and oil

2008-06-26T01:10:00.000-07:00

Lulur bali terbuat dari bahan-bahan alami untuk perawatan kulit. Lulur boreh bali, massage oil, natural soap, aromatherapy essential oil, menjadi pilihan produk SPA yang dapat membantu kesehatan dan kecantikan kulit.

Aromatherapy sangat dikenal mampu menjaga kesehatan tubuh yang menjadi dambaan setiap orang dalam kehidupan ini. Karena dengan hidup sehat maka seseorang dapat melakukan aktivitas dengan baik. Karena itu sehat adalah modal paling utama dalam kehidupan ini.

Untuk mendapatkan hidup sehat maka perawatan tubuh, kulit dan rambut menggunakan bahan alami natural adalah pilihan tepat. Karena itu sangat kami sarankan menggunakan lulur bali, lulur boreh bali, masker, massage oil, aromatherapy essential oil serta natural soap untuk perawatan kecantikan dan kesehatan tubuh juga kulit anda.

Kami mempersembahkan bahan-bahan alami untuk memenuhi kebutuhan hidup sehat anda dan keluarga. Bahan natural untuk lulur, lulur boreh bali, massage oil, natural soap, aromatherapy, essential oil dan rempah-rempah untuk kesehatan tubuh serta kecantikan kulit dari kami ini dalam berbagai bentuk yang dijamin benar-benar natural yang akan meningkatkan taraf kesehatan tubuh anda.

Lulur Bali terbuat dari sari bahan-bahan alami antara lain virgin coconut oil dan bunga serta buah yang dijamin keasliannya tanpa bahan pengawet dan tanpa bahan kimia yang dapat merusak kesehatan dan kecantikan kulit.

Lulur Bali utamanya lulur boreh bali yang sangat digemari wanita untuk perawatan kecantikan kulit wanita, lulur bali dibuat dari bahan-bahan alami seperti Cendana, Bangkoang, Green Tea, Milk Honey, Avocado dll yang dicampur dengan sari bunga cempaka dan sari bunga melati. Lulur dapat melindungi salut jaringan iris kulit, mengangkat kotoran pada pori-pori kulit, melembabkan, melemaskan kulit kaku, mengurangi flek di selulit, memperbaiki perdaran darah dan O2 serta mengandung zat antioxi dan nutrisi penting bagi kecantikan kulit, sehingga lulur bali digunakan dalam perawatan kesehatan kulit yang membuat kulit cantik dan sehat dan menjadi dambaan wanita di seluruh dunia.

Sabun natural atau natural soap adalah sabun yang dibuat menggunakan bahan alami yaitu campuran virgin coconut oil yang ditambahkan minyak asiri serta bahan alami lain yaitu sari bunga, buah ataupun cendana serta greentea serta rumput laut yang sangat bermanfaat dalam perawatan kesehatan kulit dan menjaga kelembaban kulit sehingga natural soap membuat kulit lembut, bersih dan sehat.

Pemilihan natural soap dalam perawatan kulit perlu memperhatikan bahan yang digunakan sehingga berguna bagi kesehatan dan kecantikan kulit. Karena itu pilihan terhadap natural soap yang terbuat dari bahan-bahan yang terjamin alami akan memberikan manfaat bagi kesehatan kulit.

Massage oil dengan menggunakan virgin coconut oil yang dikombinasi dengan minyak asiri yang biasa digunakan untuk pemijatan, dapat membantu masalah kulit karena sesuai hasil penelitian bahwa MCFA dalam virgin coconut oil mampu membunuh jamur dan memulihkan infeksi. Vitamin E (mikronutrien paling utama) yang terdapat dalam bentuk tokoferol berfungsi sebagai antioksidan yang sangat berguna menjaga kesehatan dan kecantikan kulit.

Memiliki kulit yang sehat dan lembut sebenarnya tidak perlu mengeluarkan biaya yang mahal karena pelembab alami virgin coconut oil dalam massage oil dapat digunakan untuk melembutkan kulit, sebab virgin coconut oil memiliki susunan molekul yang kecil sehingga mudah diserap kulit membuat kulit sehat, lembut dan lembab. Dengan menggunakan massage oil untuk perawatan kesehatan kulit karena dengan menggunakan massage oil ini maka harapan wanita memiliki kulit cantik dan lembut

Aromatherapy essential oil yang lebih sering dikenal sebagai minyak aromatherapy merupakan kombinasi virgin coconut oil dengan minyak asiri yang disesuaikan dengan kebutuhan.

Sebagai contoh aromatherapy essential oil yang menggunakan minyak jeruk lemon, aromanya berkhasiat untuk meningkatkan energi fisik. Bila menggunakan tambahan minyak vanilla berkhasiat sebagai aprosidiak dan hipnotik (menenangan pikiran). Bila menggunakan minyak rosemary memiliki efek merangsang sistem saraf pusat dan meningkatkan sistem kekebalan. Sedangan minyak aromatherapy peppermint berkhasiat merangsang otak dan menjernihkan pikiran.

Jadi penggunaan aromatherapy essential oil selain membantu perawatan kulit dapat pula membantu kesehatan melalui khasiat dari aromanya.

Source : balihandycraft.com
How to make soap : Basic soap formula